As subzero temperatures reached Paris over the past few days, so did Paris Fashion Week Men's. It was time to kick off those highly anticipated 50 fashion shows as people said 'ciao' to Milan and 'bonjour' to Paris. Endless parties and million dollar business deals were set to take Paris by storm for the coming five days (three now, sigh). As more big designers sit this one out, who was going to fill the void?
Facetasm was one of the first collections on show during [Day - 1] and boy did it channel diversity to the max. Contrasting patterns, headscarves and bubble jackets made all the voluminous layering a beauty to look at. While, Lemaire showcased classic and minimalist pieces throughout a collection that was highly masculine and on trend. But just like Facetasm, voluminous layering was key. Maybe something we could seeing a lot of over the next five days? It was all about new beginnings over at Valentino as Piccioli flew solo for the first time. You could say it all paid off - producing the brands strongest menswear line up in years. This was one for your exaggerated cuts, monochrome and tartan. However, [Day - 1] was all about Y/Project and Haider Ackermann for me. Full of volume and strong tailoring, Y/Project had us all in the palm of their hands as creative director Martens showed us why he is a master at using deconstruction techniques to create new pieces. On to Haider Ackermann though. To quote the man behind the collection: “You put something on. It matches, it clashes, it doesn’t fit. That’s my world — I’ve got quite a few things going on” - And that is exactly what we got here. This was not an elegant outing. To be honest, it was a mess. But that's what made it so damn brilliant.
[Day - 2] kicked off with Loewe and there was much to relish here. Those accessories. That outerwear. You could say that this was a collection about the people of craft. Shearling jackets, fisherman cable knits and blacksmith apron dresses all played a part here. Pretty soon after Issey Miyake launched its AW17 collection. Taking inspiration from forests, this was full of blended textures and prints that gave the thumbs up to nature. This was a show that was full of energy and clothes that we are very likely to see in every retailer in the coming months. Something that we may not see though is Rick Owens latest collection. Garments were exaggerated in proportions, nothing seemed to fit right and the trousers were as wide as elephants - not exactly retail friendly. Each to their own though. It was Louis Vuitton that took mine and everyone else's attention though on [Day - 2]. Louis Vuitton made their collaboration with Supreme official and what a way to do it. I still cant process how amazing the collection was. You might just have to go look for yourself to do it justice.
If I am being honest, London smashed it, Milan disappointed me and Paris has so far restored my excitement for the rest of the menswear calendar. We have seen shiny anoraks, sleeping bag like puffas, hoodies, topcoats, suede bombers, skateboards, questionable tailoring, slick as f*ck tailoring, turtlenecks, vests and so much more. There doesn't seem to be a fashion agenda here and that is key.