As one curtain closes on one runway we continue to stride through another. This time though its onto Milan and boy was it all about those boys. Streetwear continues to trump throughout menswear previews while many collections showcased statement basics on which to build a wardrobe. However, Milan Fashion Week Men's and London Fashion Week Men's had a lot more in common than some had thought this time around. However, many still sit around claiming men's fashion is having an identity crisis, even after last weeks shows in London, but in truth all you have to do is look at these shows to see that is total bull.
This so called 'Time For Change' brought a lot of excitement back to Milan. Last year many of the big names dropped out of the showcase, allowing younger designers to take the wheel. This time around though, it was a little different. Speaking of big names though, lets talk about Emporio Armani's preview. Streetwear at the moment is being hogged by loose layering and easy lines so it really should be Giorgio Armani's moment, yet again. That was not the case though as the designer opted for shrunken silhouettes throughout the collection. You could say that some were as tight as bandage wrappings to be honest. It wouldn't be fashion week if a designer didn't go against their current, right?
Like many throughout LFWM, Neil Barrett opted to bring us back to the nineties. The designer was trying (and succeeding, at that) to establish a new take on minimalism throughout. It was Dsquared2 and Diesel that looked for more of an Urban outlook for their collections - Dsquared2 with a more glamours take and Diesel with a tribal take. And on that note, Isabel Benenato looked for a more luxurious outlook, while keeping with that chic and relaxed mood that so many others have opted for. Nothing wrong with that of course.
Things started to get a little spicy when Gosha Rubchinskiy brought us a show that fueled with energy of rock. You could almost feel the post soviet era throughout. Moschino went with the idea of blurring gender lines. It was almost like a tug of war for the clothes to be honest. While Armani drew on his memories and adventures for his second collection of the weekend. Quite a military dandy collection at that.
Things continued with Dolce & Gabbana and that was just, well, Dolce & Gabbana. Not a whole bunch ever changes there (In a good way of course *ahem*). Prada then hot the runway hard, looking to make an impression by sending out street silhouettes made from layers, upon layers of black nylon - taking us right back to the start of the decade when Prada made a name for itself. It was Fendi though who took us to a whole new level, literally. With a theme that seemed to be based on travel, this was show that was heavy on luxe and utilitarian all in one. This was the kind of stuff for a guy who steps onto a plane and turns left (if he doesn't own his own plane, that is). However, at the end of the day, its always going to be credit where credit is due and saying that only brings Donatella Versace to mind. This collection was almost like a post-modern mash up of preppy and punk with a sprinkle of street on top. So much joy at this one.
Consistency is always key when it comes to fashion week in Milan. Many of the bigger names dropped out last year but returned to the head of the throne this time around, and rightly so. When a brand has been around for a while like many of these top houses, they tend to get a bit boring. But this season there was a sense of excitement again. Things felt youthful again. You could say that elegance met its good friend adventure, here.